In the hiker's paradise of northern Arizona, every day counts, especially when you only have three months to explore all that the area has to offer. Because the Coconino National Forest, which includes Sunset Crater, the Wupatki Ruins, Mt. Humphreys, Mt. Elden, and most other trails near us, is closed due to the Brins Fire, we decided to drive two hours north to Lee's Ferry for a weekend of camping and hiking the first chance we got. Situated off Route 89A just past the Navajo Bridge is the Lee's Ferry recreation area, a remote park which marks the point where the Paria River joins the Colorado River and also affords breathtaking views of the mouth of the Grand Canyon - if you're willing to climb a few strenuous trails.
Even though we got an early start on Saturday morning, we did not arrive at the campground until noon, which translates into triple digit desert heat. We set up the tent and waited for the harsh afternoon sun to fade before setting out on the Spencer Trail - a three mile round trip vertical climb to the top of a 4,740 foot plateau. From the ground we could not see the trail, or even the top of the plateau. All that we could see was a 1,560 foot red rock towering over the winding Colorado River. I started to have second thoughts about the climb, but the guide book assured us that the top afforded incredible views of the river valley. Anything for a photo, right? Any time we feel intimidated by a trail, we pretend that we're members of a National Geographic photography team. Do you think those guys get those incredible photos by sticking to the comfortable trails? No way! In fact, when we visited Washington, D.C., we stopped by the National Geographic museum where we saw an underwater photo of a trout swimming through an Alasakan stream. The photographer wrote that he waited for hours IN the freezing stream to get that shot. Needless to say, we were willing to climb 1.5 miles up a trail to reach the promised views.
Though we had each come prepared with a gallon of water, we were not prepared for the intensity of the heat. Within ten minutes, the cool water in our Nalgene bottles was steaming hot, and the heat settled on us in unrelenting waves. There was no way that we could make the climb even in the late afternoon, as there were no water sources or shaded areas along the trail. Reluctantly, we turned back for the day with a resolution to awake early and try again. The rest of the afternoon was spent lounging on the white sands of the Paria beach, immersing ourselves in the chilly Colorado River, and watching rafters float by on their way towards Phantom Ranch.
At four thirty the next morning, we awoke to an amazing sunrise bathing the cliffs in soft red light. We sat for a while enjoying the sunrise before heading back to the Spencer Trail. Already the day was warm, but bearable, as the side of the cliff was still covered in shade. As we climbed steadily upward and navigated the loose rocks, we were rewarded with increasingly grand views of the valley below - red rock reflected in the river, stretches of buttes and canyon valleys, the winding blue and green of the Colorado River. Darting lizards, desert flowers, odd rock formations, and steep drop-offs punctuated the trail. At several points in the trail, we could not see where the trail led next, or where we had been previously due to the vertical nature of the climb. We hugged the cliff walls until we reached the top of the plateau.
Upon reaching the summit - we felt we were on top of the world! In one direction, we could see the beginning of the Grand Canyon and the winding Colorado, in the other we could see the Echo and Vermillion Cliffs, Lake Powell, and Navajo Mountain. All along the ridge were cairns, or rock piles, left by previous hikers to mark the summit. We added our own rocks to commemorate the occasion.
Though we could have sat for hours, we knew that we had to be back by ten in order to make the descent before the heat of the day set in. Reluctantly, we gathered the camera equipment and made our way back down the trail. We could still see rafters preparing to go down river and fishermen heading upstream to catch trout. The colors of the place are so vivid - as though a veil has been pulled away to reveal their true colors. Never have I see such blue sky or such red rock - the pictures, as stunning as they are, do the scene no justice!
After an afternoon of playing in the river, we headed back home - and none too soon. The day after we returned, the Forest Service closed down route 89A due to the raging North Rim fire. The Brins Fire (near Sedona) is now nearly 90% contained, but the North Rim fire is still steadily burning. Although the South Rim is still open, the entire canyon is fillled with smoke from the fire. Everybody should pray for rain, as that is probably going to be the only thing that will stop the wildfires from consuming the drought ridden Southwest! We live up on a mesa, and the fires have not come near Flagstaff, so you don't need to worry about us. We're more worried about the state of the forests and anxiously awaiting the reopening of the Coconino National Forest. Can't wait to see all of you who are coming to visit! Don't worry - we'll find something to do around here. You're probably breathing a sigh of relief that we can't take you hiking. HaHa!
We miss you all!
Posting By: Rebecca
Photo By: Ted
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