As soon as Ted got off work Saturday morning, we began packing for our weekend trip to Petaluma, a small town twenty minutes east of Sonoma and the famous wine country. We were a little concerned that the bed and breakfast Ted booked may be closed due to the recent flooding in Napa, but we decided to check it out anyway.
On our way to Petaluma, Ted took what I thought to be a wrong turn in San Francisco, but the twinkle in his eye convinced me he knew exactly where he was going. As soon as I saw the Ashbury street sign, I did too. Ted planned for us to spend the morning in the Haight-Ashbury district of San Francisco, once famous as a hippie enclave, but now known for its eclectic boutiques and vintage shopping. Ted led me to a cafe called All You Knead, and we sat at a booth in the back corner where we could observe the passerby on the street as well as the other customers. I've wanted to visit the Haight-Ashbury district since I can remember, and there I was eating breakfast at a cafe in the heart of it all! I couldn't believe it!
As we drank coffee strong enough to wake the dead, and ate an eclectic breakfast featuring spinach, tomatoes, and feta cheese, we watched as more and more people crowded into this Haight hotspot. Six members of a gothic band who all had British accents sat to the left of us, two girls in their twenties wearing classic vintage garb sat in front of us, and an obvious tourist couple sat across the way. After years of trying to approximate the experience by shopping at vintage stores in midtown Memphis, and frequenting the hippie hangouts in Asheville, I had finally arrived at the real deal! After breakfast, Ted took me vintage store shopping, where he found an old tweed coat, several classic button-up shirts, and a fringed leather jacket. I found countless peasant tops, silk Kimono style robes, and beautifully patterned dresses. We promised to return to buy a few of the treasures, and headed on to Petaluma.
From the moment that we crossed the Golden Gate Bridge until we reached our bed and breakfast in Petaluma, we counted seven rainbows! We saw the beginning and end of two rainbows, which is a rare sight in and of itself. One rainbow began in the water, framed a section of woods, and ended in a nearby field. The second complete rainbow stretched across a verdant hillside, highlighting several cows grazing at the top of the hill. We felt as though we were in a painting! Seeing seven rainbows on the seventh day of the new year has to be a good sign!
Ted booked a room at the Metro Cafe and Hotel, an intimate bed and breakfast founded by a man who was married to a French wife. French themed rooms, books written in French, and a romantic cafe made us feel as though we were in Paris rather than Petaluma! We quickly unpacked and drove the twenty miles to Sonoma, the southern tip of wine country. Miles of lush fields undulating under a canopy of pink clouds made the scene as picturesque as all the postcards we had seen of the valley. With all the famous wineries in Sonoma and Napa, it was difficult to pick just a few, but we were able to narrow our selection to five. The first two on our list for the evening were Buena Vista vineyards and Ravenswood vineyards.
Buena Vista is the oldest winery in Sonoma, and was founded by a count from Europe. His goal was to make wines that were as good as the French wines he knew and loved. After several failed attempts in other counties, he settled in Carneros valley in Sonoma and began to produce some of the first quality wine in America. According to the Buena Vista vintner, he succeeded in surpassing the quality of French wines, though I'm sure that's open to interpretation! Our favorite wine from this stop was the syrah, a medium bodied red wine with a sweet, yet bold flavor. After the tasting, we walked some of the trails along the property and marveled at the beauty surrounding the vineyard.
At Ravenswood winery, we learned a great deal about wine, although we did not like any of the varieties we tried. After this tasting, we drove back to Petaluma, one of the few towns near San Francisco to survive the 1906 earthquake virtually intact. Because many of its buildings date back to 1857, and the town has maintained its Main Street appeal, it is a favorite set for movie producers looking for a small slice of Americana. American Graffiti, Phenomenon, Peggy Sue Got Married, and Basic Instinct were all filmed in Petaluma. McNear's, a typical pub style restaurant housed in an original saloon, still features a hitching post outside the front doors. In an attempt to sample the local culture, we decided to dine on burgers and fish n' chips at McNear's.
The next morning, we awoke in our sinfully comfortable down bed, and began to plan the day. Ted picked an orange from the tree outside our room, and we talked over which vineyards to visit while seated at our own bistro table. Breakfast was at Della Fraitorria, the oldest bread making company in northern California. I ate a cinnamon role made from buttery croissant dough that literally melted in my mouth, while Ted feasted on a marscapone and jam filled croissant. We decided to visit Viansaa Vineyards, Cline Vineyards, and Chateau St. Jean, with a break for lunch in between. Breathtaking views, delicious wines, and excellent conversation filled the day, and it was over seemingly before it had begun. Our favorite vineyard was Viansa, as it was more novice friendly than some of the others. Viansa also offered a complete line of sauces and condiments that were available for tasting as well. Their Cento por Cento, a buttery white wine with complex pear flavors, was our favorite white wine of all time, and definitely of the trip.
As we crossed over the Golden Gate Bridge to go home, Ted took another surprise turn in San Francisco. He took me to Ghiradelli Square for a decadent ice cream sundae instead of the traditional birthday cake. He even sang me "Happy Birthday" in the middle of the restaurant! Watching Under the Tuscan Sun, at Ted's request, rounded out the weekend. The weekend was perfect in every detail, making this my best birthday yet!
By: Rebecca
Photos: Ted (The photos are of Pietra Santa vineyards, which we visited in November. Their website is: www.pietrasantawinery.com We recommend their dolcetto.)
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